It always starts with the fabric. In this case, a metallic coppery-bronze viscose blend from EmmaOneSock. This fabric was a treasure to sew! Substantial & didn't ravel much. I needed a jacket to wear over a dress at an event. I had bronze sandals and a bronze evening bag and this fabric looks good with them. Final decision was, what pattern? I flipped through 5 years of BWOF's and one pattern out of all popped -- #101 in May 2008.
I liked its slightly downtown feel with rivets and zipper. I thought the shape and style would contrast nicely with a black silk dress, and with the metallic fabric.
Other criteria: I was short on time and these lines could be quickly sewn. The peplum and exposed darts would give easy-to-sew shaping without fiddling too long for fit. I was looking for a collar-less jacket because it takes me a lot of time to sew collars.
Several reviews are on PatternReview.com -- search "05-2008-101" in Patterns.
Here's what I could add:
I didn't look at directions at all. But construction might have been more efficient if I had. It still went together nicely -- isn't it amazing how even when adding seam allowances, precise curves of BWOF pieces line up and fit together perfectly.
Edges are finished with hong kong seams. I did not install a zipper because I was running out of time. I will install one later. It feels dressier without a zipper, but I like the idea of the metal teeth giving an edge to the dressy fabric. On the faux pocket flaps, I used buttons instead of snaps.
Like others who posted reviews on PR.com, I was surprised with the blousiness. I added a third dart in the neckline to tame the blousiness, and like another reviewer, I stitched the darts down, up to 2". Although I usually need an FBA, the blousiness made the jacket fit fine without one. The sleeves were a bit tight in the upper arm, so I did an upper arm adjustment.
I'm petite 5'0" and the peplum sits a little low. I'll make this again and will definitely raise the peplum seam a bit.
2 hours ago