Sunday, November 9, 2008

Sewing Project: Wool/Silk Herringbone Coat

Nothing like seeing snowflakes to realize it's time to put scissors to fabric, iron to interfacing, and thread to it all, and sew the Wool/Silk Herringbone Coat. Here's the fabric, from EmmaOneSock a few years ago:

It's slightly lightweight for Chicago winters, so it will be lined with a satin-on-one-side, flannel-on-the-other lining in espresso color. The entire fashion fabric will be interfaced to stabilize it (Pro-Weft from Fashion Sewing Supply). I also plan to add contrast piping down the inside front facing with a red/beige/black/brown silk from Vogue Fabrics remnant room. Everything has been washed or steamed to pre-shrink it, even the silk remnant. It said dry clean only and washing definitely changed the hand of it, but just a sliver will peek out, and I'd rather have silk less soft than silk piping shrinking at the dry cleaner someday!

Decision time: Do I get hair canvas to practice stitches to roll the collar? Or just go with the fusible interfacing?

Future Decision: Buttons. I'll take a swatch over Thanksgiving holiday in Michigan to Habermans. Hopefully I'll score there!

Progress: A muslin was cut out today. I'm always afraid of cutting too small. So I wind up cutting a muslin many sizes too big and then trim, trim, trim down. What a great way to add time to a sewing project! Looking at the pieces laid out on the floor, even before I stitch the muslin together, I know I did it again! Ah well.

The muslin is cut out in Butterick 5145 view B, which I envisioned all along for this fabric. Clearly due to the very obvious example of view A fabric on the envelope:

However I have concerns about the wide pleat in the back. Even though the muslin is cut out, I'm still considering some princess seam coats with no back pleat. We'll see how this goes.


Dawn said...

If I was to make this again, I would get rid of the pleat. I reviewed it at For me the pleat flares out funny and the lining actually acts as a bustle of sorts holding the pleat out. I know a lot more now than I did then so I would line it differently now, but still.

deb said...

Thank you. I'm going to play with the muslin and "delete the pleat." I saw lots of coats during a trip to Washington DC this week in this same style. In the shorter lengths, people were able to move, sit, walk, etc. with no problem. At least, as far as I could tell as an observer! I'm afraid with a larger waist-to-hip ratio that I have with an hourglass shape, that the pleat will do the same thing, act like a bustle.

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