Saturday, November 15, 2008

Sewing Project: Wool/Silk Herringbone Coat - Post 2

No doubt, I will play with the Butterick 5145 pattern to delete the back pleat:

Wearing ease should still be OK in the shorter version. With my 9" difference between waist and hip, the pleat may bring a very eye-catching but unflattering result. Plus if the folds don't lie flat when sitting, they get wrinkled and messy.
I want to achieve the clean back lines of Simplicity 4033:

However now that I visit Butterick to get the 5145 technical picture, I see this coat, Butterick 5295:

It fits much of my criteria: clean lines, not double-breasted, chest shaping, no belt, back detail that may work for hourglass shape with defined waist and swayback. I would delete the hip pockets -- don't need extra bulk there -- and instead do side seam set-in pockets. Unless there's something about those hip pockets that may actually make the hip look slimmer. I'd have to play with how it looks.

I love many of the Burda WOF patterns. But for my first go-around with a coat, I'd like more detail in the directions. Big 4 surely don't give everything, but I've learned enough to supplement them. Still need more guidance than Burda WOF may give.

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